Feed
Jan
15
am costa rica is reporting there’s been a decrease in visitors to coast rica for 2006. further, internet statistics show a “decline in interest in costa rica”. online papers and e-zines are losing readership. “tourist operators say business is off 35 percent”
what’s up with costa rica? tourism officials there suggest several possible explanations for the decline in tourism: bad roads, crappy infrastructure, the softening of the housing market in the U.S. but talk to anyone who’s done time in costa rica, and the reason will hit you upside the head and demand your wallet.
on my last visit to san jose (’06) i was surprised by the up tick in violence and filth (i had traveled there in ‘05 and ‘04). sure, the downtown area (see picture) was still a nice place to hang out. it was still a cool 70 degrees, and all the wonderful architecture was still there. but danger lurked on many side streets. i was hassled everyday by somebody wanting money. it felt like every costa rican i met was on the grift.
in the last year i’ve noticed more and more refugees coming to panama from costa rica. intrigued, i decided to interview an expat who’s lived in costa rica for years. he’s in the process of getting his costa rican passport. he’s young, a savvy marketer, and college educated. not the stereotypical frail geezer-gringo unable to deal with culture shock.
“so there’s crime in costa rica. big deal, isn’t crime a problem everywhere.”
Aaah… it’s the “Crime happens everywhere” argument. Sure it does. It just tends to happen more in Costa Rica. You cannot talk to five people without meeting someone who’s experienced crime (and not pansy crime). Stop believing the travel brochures and start using your eyes and ears. EVERY Tico you talk with will have a story about how they’ve been affected by robbery, violence or theft.
I talked to people in Palos Verdes, Torrance and Redondo Beach, California… and almost nobody had a story for me. (One guy actually, but it had happened several years ago). Sure, you read about stuff in the papers… but rarely do you meet someone who is affected by it personally.
But here in Costa Rica, it’s endemic. Even in the most “swanky” part of the country, Escazu, if you have money– then you probably live in a gated community with an armed guard with a shotgun. You (or your neighbors) probably have a guard dog, too.
This is not a normal way to live. It is a manner of living that will eventually take a psychic toll and leave the people of this country fearful and paranoid. (Hell, they already live in houses that look like prison cells, so maybe it’s too late?)
Sure, you can compare Costa Rica to Compton or Watts or Harlem and say, “Well, it’s still so much better here.”
Whatever. When I’m in the States, I can choose to live in a community where I can go for 40 years and never lock my front door– and never be affected by crime. Even in my years living in a Beach Community of Los Angeles, and five years in Austin– I’ve never known anyone (let alone a majority) of people to have been affected by so much crime.
There’s a saying the Ticos have here: The good people live in houses that look like jail cells (because of the bars on the windows, gates, front yards, metal doors, alarms, padlocks, etc.) … and the criminals roam the streets, freely.
In most parts of rural America, you can drive to the grocery store, leave your car window open and put your wallet on the dash– every day of the week– and nobody’s going to touch it. Why? It’s a different culture.
Try that here… in the “Switzerland of Latin America.” Gone in 60 seconds.
“to be fair we’ve got crime in panama too.”
Look here’s a simple test: Drive around a better area of San Jose (Rhormoser, Pavos, Escazu) at night and see how many people with BMWs and Mercedes park their cars on the street, or in their driveway– without a gate and a guard. Now do the same in Panama City. What you’ll see in P.C. is that people do it– successfully– without getting their cars stolen.
Does crime happen in P.C.? Yes, crime happens everywhere. But it happens a lot more, here in Costa Rica. Try taking your toy poodle for a walk at 9 pm, alone, in Manhattan Beach, California. No problem. You can do it every night of the week for a month, and nobody will bother you. Do it here and I guarantee you’re going to find trouble.
“yes, i was out last night at 11pm and there were couples and single women on the steet. i feel very safe in el cangrejo”
hey, even in Bogota, Colombia, there are good parts and bad parts. But in the good parts, you can generally feel pretty safe walking around at night. Not so, here in Costa Rica. Look– some if some folks like costa rica, then fine. Enjoy life. But let’s not pretend this is a rose garden without thorns, or that Crime happens everywhere, so pura vida. — when in fact, it’s a heck of a lot more dangerous (even in the good areas) here, compared to the good areas in many, many other countries.
For those of you who don’t live here yet… make sure you factor in all elements before moving. It’s not the “peaceful paradise” the tourism ministry would have you believe. It is a life of constant vigilance, if you wish to live a regular, normal life. (If you live like a hippie at the beach, far away from good hospitals, restaurants, infrastructure, etc… then go for it!)
“funny that. my friends and i were living like hippies in pavones, dominical, mal pais, and still, anything that was not locked up, like our towels and flip flops, would get stolen.”
It’s a problem. costa rica’s still a great place to live… but security must be a constant concern. I hope this changes in the future, and the government will get serious and get it’s act together. But until then… Buyer Beware.
i think the crime here is an aspect of the culture. There are many, many parts of Asia where the people are (on average) much poorer than your average Tico– but do not engage in this level of crime.
“so what do you think of the websites promoting this false image of costa rica as tropical paradise - for example, the escape aritst?”
Yeah, I’m familiar with Roger Gallo. His marketing is very good. Albeit bullshit. “Costa Rica– it’s all sunshine, smiles and ice cream. Not to mention… cheap beer!” — Yeah, until your 70 year-old wife breaks her hip on one of the pot holes, a transvestite takes her purse while she’s unconscious, the paramedic feels her up on the way to the hospital, and the hospital itself catches fire and needs to be evacuated, while half the patients are stuck inside because some moron locked the exit doors. Pura Vida, mother fucker.
um … to be fair, it’s not all bad - i understand the coffee’s good
yeah - you see what costa rican coffee does to a guy’s blood pressure?
if we’ve helped, or entertained you, and you’d like to help us out, you can donate via the crocodile on the sidebar.
join the cult of cojito. just drink the koolaid.
Adult Personals • Love Personals • Passion Personals • Live Action
Man– now THAT’S a good article!
I think this one really proves, once and for all, you’re ready for that pulitzer.
Hee hee hee.
Seriously– Good job. It’s nice to find somebody with the balls to publish this stuff.
lol how did i know you were going to say that?
This is a bit of a shocker; I’ve been in and out of Costa Rica on ships for 15 plus years. I never had any problem with muggers in Puntarenas (the port) although; normally I proceed as if trouble is just around the corner. It is a place that has certainly lost its luster. They built a modern cruise ship dock and terminal there, but the tourists are bused off to different destinations (San Jose and the rainforest tours and hotels) and rarely do you see a tourist walking around in Puntarenas. I have wandered around half-drunk at all hours of the night waiting for the water taxi to take me back to the ship and I’ve never had a problem. Just lucky I suspect.
In San Jose, during the day I’ve walked and shopped in the downtown area and never had any problems. At night is different, a few locals have told me to watch it, especially near the parks and alleys…common sense stuff.
You’ve got to watch it in Panamá City too. Normally, I stay in the banking district and even though typically there are security guards at the banks at night, there are still bad guys loitering around the ATM machines. I’ve been shadowed more than once. These guys can be working independently or they may be part of a mugging scam set up with the security guards’ knowledge. I hate to say that, being that Panamá City is one of my favorite places, but most of these guards only earn about 5-10 dollars per day. Best to walk around with a buddy or two. During the day the Cathedral area on Via España can be a hangout for hoods looking for gringos (the captain and another officer got jumped at knife-point there a few years ago). I’d avoid the guys handing out tourist brochures on Via España as well. Typically they are hired by the day, they promote ecotourism, canal trips, etc. but they also try to give you ad hoc “city tours†or direct you into seedy bars where so-called beautiful women await you. Once, I got hustled out of twenty bucks, long story but it is best to just avoid these guys and keep walking (even if they do speak english). Keep a constant eye on your refreshing beverage while in the bars and clubs in Panamá. A buddy of mine, a former Army MP in Panamá, was playing pool with two chicas and a guy at the El Pavo Pub (British and American hang out in the banking district); he felt dizzy, walked outside with these people, passed out and when he woke up he was lying in the street with his wallet gone. They dropped sedatives in his beer and mugged him after he passed out. It’s a good idea to put a napkin over that cocktail.
On Via España in front of the Hotel Continental, I did get into a fight with a couple of pickpockets during festival two years ago. They didn’t get any of my belongings, I did manage to land a few punches and the little bastards bloodied up my nose a bit before I decided to get the hell out of there. Generally, I think the festival is fun, but stay out of the big crowds around the bandstands. The thugs are looking for gringos to mug. I’ve been in and out of Panamá for about 25 years; generally it is safe and a fun place to be. I’ve only had a few problems but it is a poor country with crime so it’s best to keep a constant look out.
lol - your comment’s almost as long as my interview jim. well done.
well, puntarenas was rather sleepy when i visited two years back. not many gringos to rob back then. i’m guessing the increase in crime is in areas where gringos settle in.
i don’t disagree with what you say about panama. like any city - it’s got crime. you need to be careful if you’re out clubbing late at night. i lived in boston 8 years. never had a problem. but i had friends who were mugged. i learned that to live in a city i need to always be careful about what i do, where i go, and at what time.
“They dropped sedatives in his beer and mugged him after he passed out. It’s a good idea to put a napkin over that cocktail.”
– I prefer to put a condom on my cocktail. It’s much harder for them to slip a sedative in my drink when we’re having safe sex. And usually the beer gets knocked over, anyway.
Agree. Please see the last Tico Times (6 murders in a week including West SJ). Think it is because the police force there has gotten way too lax and the inflation is out of control). If a Gringo does not want to buy the coffee anymore because it is more expensive than the US what about the poor Ticos who make like $300/month. I’m not just talking about the supermarkets in good areas. Same price at a chain store in 3 diff. locations. Police are proly lax because they aren’t paid shit either. The CR Govt. needs to open their pocket books and pay the police more and/or fund more policeforce.
Check out Colombia. Really bad in the bad areas but in the good areas with military with weapons everywhere relatively safe.
yeah dave, crime’s gotten bad in costa rica. i just got back from san jose. when i go, i always stay in barrio amon. very safe. 4 years and never a problem. but this year they had to add armed guards at the hotel.
i still like san jose. and i’d never want to live in a police state. but they need to get it together.
Great article.Been here two years and had three burglaries so far.I’ve had it and after I have sold my properties the motto is “get he hell out…”
Thoughts on Costa Rica: When I first visited San Jose in 1980, and for several years after that, I could walk anywhere in San Jose at anytime, even at 3:00AM. No problem, not a hint. But, by my last visit in 1989, things had changed: There were shanty towns of very poor Nicaraguan refugees from the Contra wars. (Hmm. All those poor Nicaraguan kids raised there would be in their teens or older now!!!) The poorer Costa Ricans began to notice the rich gringo tourists that started to pour in. During my last visit, I remember a very desperate appearing little kid selling flowers. We decided that he would probably be beaten if he did not sell all of his flowers. Confrontational crime became the norm, rather than the exception. CR was a great place at one time, but not anymore.
yeah, it’s changed. and it gets worse every year. every year i go back and it’s dirtier, edgier. what did you think of colombia?
You really can’t blame this on poverty.
There are many places in the world where you can travel that are much poorer, yet safer.
What you can blame it on is “Pura Vida” — which is Costa Rican spanish for “We don’t give a shit.”
I share the author’s observations. His story parallels mine. I visited CR from 1995 to 2002 and each year the crime was increasing. My plan was to move from the the Los Angeles west side (I lived at one time in Manhattan Bch) to CR. I finally got mugged in San Jose. I wasn’t in the wrong place at the wrong time. I now live in Panama. There are many expats here that previously lived in CR. Almost all left because of bad crime experiences. I really wanted to like CR, but I just met too many people there that have been mugged, then my number came up. No mas!
It’s true , i was in costa rica a few days ago and I will never go back . I felt that is not a safe place to be.
I visited Puerto Viejo de Talamanca last year. I loved it but there was a slight edge. My neighbour just came back from there yesterday. He visited a friend with the intention of staying. He said the physical attacks on people are so out of control he left in disgust. He is not the only person to say this. I also know of someone in England who said he could no longer stand the place. I am vey sad about this as I loved the beauty of the area and found most of the people friendly.
I just returned from San Jose. There are dozens of chapolinas on the streets day and night.If you don’t give them a 100 collon per day you better watch your ass when entering your appartment at night. The cops are also shaking down gringo’s looking for drugs and cash. They are all on the take. They intimidate you untill you give them something.There usual excuse to hassle you is that you don’t carry your pasport. They claim that a photo coppy is not adaquate enough.
The chapolinas smoke crack right in front of the cops and the cops look the other way. THERE IS NO MONEY THERE. I think the cops are worse than the chapolinas.
I might try Columbia. Believe it or not I think it is much safer. Buenas AL
I just returned from several weeks in Costa Rica. I enjoy the Puerto Viejo area. It seems that there “had been” several incidents of backpack snatching episodes…especially in the Cocles Beach area. Tourist surfers leaving valuables on blankets, packpaks being snatched from bicycle baskets. A few months ago…there were a few dozen incidents of this sort. However, I understand they caught the guy…he was from Limon. He’s no longer seen in the area.
Three weeks ago, I witnessed a young Swiss girl standing on the roadside bleeding from the leg. She had been pushed off her bicycle, and then had the bicycle stolen, along with her backpak. When she fell, she landed in gravel…and cut her hand, knee and foot. The manager of her hotel was summoned, and he took her to the clinic. The police showed up…and searched for the 15 year old local boy.
Two days later, I ran into the hotel manager who told me that the police caught the MULTI-OFFENDER…and the girl was able to identified him. I asked what the cops do with a kid like that. I was told that they cut his arm and shot him in the leg.
Although I was shocked…I believe this kid will not be stealing in the near future…nor, would I assume, will his close friends. And, then I started to think about how our system in the US would have handled this problem. Court, Lawyers, Jail, comes out worse…cost tax payers plenty…and he, most likely, according to statics, becomes a greater threat to society.
Give the man a Cigar! John, you rang the bell, and it gets worse all the time.
John…I lived in CR for 3 years. I wouldnt believe what the hotel manager told you. Yes…they are a bunch of theives up there. And they would not shoot or harm the boy for thievery. They would rather shake down gringos. He might be detained for a couple days and then he’s back out on the street. I saw many incidences of this when living there. You were probably told that to make you feel safer and more protected…so you’ll come back and stay at the hotel again. Just my 2 colones worth…
I was referring to the “system in the US”
who is talking about the USA system here? CR stands for “Costa Rica”.
Nobody.
But if a swiss girl gets pushed off her bike in Costa Rica, didn’t you know that it’s America’s fault because of “Bushitler?”
I hate you, hippies.
Anyway– I completely agree with Tman. There’s no way in hell that the Ticos would have shot him, for this type of offense. They don’t even do that to convicted rapists and murderers.
Maybe in Dubai, but not in CR.
read reply #16 above and you’ll see who is talking about the US.
raul; It’s not bu-shitler, it’s king george, check out this link-
http://www.globalresearch.ca/index.php?context=va&aid=5853
I agree with you, I don’t think they would have shot the kid, but it makes good public safety propaganda to say they did.
I live in the mountains of Heredia, Costa Rica. It seems like a safe enough farm area, and I’ve always thought people were going overboard everywhere in fear of robberies. But last night some crackhead went into my yard, tried to break into my car, couldn’t get in so he pulled the glass out of a window, broke into the house, found my wife’s purse took the money and the keys, then opened the car and took my iPod and a dvd player. I’m not feeling all that safe here anymore.
Wow guys, thanks for the info. I always thought CR would be pretty lightweight crime-wise compared to some places I’ve been: Peru and Bolivia.
Darn, I was just about ready to take my wife and 2 young daughters for a laid back 2 months based out of escazu next winter. I had been pretty full of “jism” about Costa Rica. I mean more and more pumped every day! But now, I don’t know. . .
My chilean wife and I are searching really hard for a good LA country to winter in and possibly live in eventually. We spent many years in Chile, but had decided that the Chilean people are essentially such incredible jerks that we would look for another latin country to be our adopted second country (outside of the USA).
Peruvians and Bolivians are warm, fantastic, gringo-friendly people, but street crime is bad and getting worse, especially in Peru of course.
O darn, it looks like I might have to go back to Chile, after all, and listen to Chilean neo-nazi morons tell me why they are supposedly the world’s best country and that they will eventually conquer the world. Better than getting mugged in CR, I s’pose.
21 years and I still like it.
I don’t hang out with dipshits from The Empyre tho..
Confused Gringo, you could do a lot worse than consider Panama for your winter vacation.
I went there a few years ago for work and have returned regularly. I’m now looking to buy a house there and emigrate from the UK.
It’s a great city with plenty to do. On the whole the people are friendly and you can get to decent beach resorts within a couple of hours. We regularly head down to the all-inclusive Decameron resort on the Pacific coast for a short mid-week break.
Don’t get me wrong, it’s the same as any major city, there are areas you most definately avoid but then there are areas that you feel totally safe and that are family orientated…..just take a trip down the Causeway on any Sunday afternoon and you’ll see it packed with families from all cultures.
You can travel anywhere in the city for US$2 in a cab…although make sure the driver is aware you know the costs. Last year when I was back a cab driver tried to charge me US$10 for a ride half way across the city but when I started to get out the cab, telling him I wasn’t a tourist, he quickly changed the fare! A couple of notes on cabs though…try to use radio cabs whenever possible as there have been a few cases of “cab muggings”. Try to get a cab that has it’s windows rolled up (it normally means it’s got aircon). You’ll pay a little extra if you get a cab from outside an hotel.
If you don’t consider Panama as an option, then good luck wherever you do decide to take your vacation.
Everything you say is 100% true. I have been living in Costa Rica (Mal Pais) for the last 2 years and EVERYONE I KNOW has been robbed one way or another. Unfortunately last night one of my friends was nearly killed by two guys with guns that broke in his house, they did not give any warnings at all, as soon as he spotted them they just started shooting at him, thank god he had a shout gun and was able to return fire and scare them off. When he got the gun a few months ago I laughed at him and said he was over reacting at the petty theft, well guess what I just called my lawyer and asked him to start the process of buying me a gun. I am sick of people saying PURA VIDA, it’s such bullshit, the same person that waves at you and says PURA VIDA is the same MOFO that will rob you that night!
Hola from Costa Rica,
I have lived here for 5 years. Thus far I have had a ladder and a car stolen. When I was in Dallas, Texas a couple of months ago someone stole a guys motorcycle in seconds while he went in to buy a soda so I guess it happens everywhere. The problem in Costa Rica is the inflation is super high and the people are paid really low wages. Personally I would and do have security anywhere I live. It is no better in Panama unless it is an island. A friend from here was robbed in Panama City last month by 3 guys with knives. It boils down to luck sometimes…………..